![]() ![]() The supply of the switch line (L) to terminal nº 5, red wire comes from the alarm fuse. ![]() I put a photo as an example of the zigbee samotech MS-104Z, it is cheap and works well in samartting.Ĭonnections to make, if you can, check this with a multimeter: The easiest thing I see is to use a zigbee or zwave switch that allows an input from the manual switch connected to the line and would place it in the junction box that you have below the box. ![]() See the faq:įAQ: List of devices with dry contact input from external the control box I see that everything works with the general AC power. The mimolite is no longer being sold at retail, but there are a number of other devices now available. No wiring required, so even total failure shouldn’t change the pump’s function in any way. In any case, I’d still recommend trying the Fibaro multisensor first. The mimolite or other control devices could be more of a problem if they randomly open or close the relay. That part can’t really fail unless the wire becomes physically detached from the contact post, so it shouldn’t be an issue even if the radio communication fails. So it’s just a coincidence that there are “contact sensors” with “dry contacts”- the word “contact” is being used two different ways there.Īs to what happens if the bridge device fails…the dry contacts attachment is just a physical loop spliced into the existing circuit. And you can use it as a relay to turn off a 120v device as well, something you can’t do with the ecolink sensor, for example. Not only can it handle somewhat higher voltage, you can set it to detect with a range rather than just on/off. The mimolite is a much more robust device. Because these typically cost quite a bit less than the mimolite, people often use them for simple on/off reports, particularly for low voltage devices like a doorbell. Which doesn’t do anything else: it’s designed specifically as a bridge to add zwave communication to dumb devices.Īs it happens, there are a couple of contact sensors which also have dry contacts, but that was just a manufacturer decision. The device with the dry contacts can be pretty much anything: one very popular one is the Mimolite. ”Dry Contacts”: on the other hand, are connecting points on a device which complete a circuit when an external device is electrically active. I don’t think we’re talking about the same thing here.Ī contact sensor typically detects a “closed” event when the magnet piece is moved close enough to the other piece that the magnet can pull the thin metal “reed” inside the other piece of the sensor into position. For example you have an Aux alarm, not 100% sure but may be that could be a proxy for connecting to the dry contact sensor if they don’t have any voltage associated with them and are connected to a relay internally. Some devices have outputs which can be connected to dry contact sensors. But I believe that I also have z-wave devices close enough that either would not be a problem.ĭry contact sensors can only detect when the contact has been closed or opened externally. Any thoughts on what can accomplish this? Zigbee would be preferable because I happen to have a zigbee outlet (repeater) right on the inside wall next to that panel. Just not sure which is the best.Īs per the schematic A1 & A2 are the alarm. Since the pump already has the “alarm” function, it would seem I should be able to connect a fairly cheap device that can notify when the “alarm” is on. I have attached a photograph of the inside of the control panel as well as the wiring schematic. I was wondering if there is a zigbee/z-wave device that I could also wire inside the control panel that would send me a notification to my phone? The control panel has an “alarm” that if it is activated turns on a light and audible alarm. (Similar to a sump pump, but heavy duty). So I have a pump outside my home which pumps my waste water to the municipal line. My home sits below the municipal sewer line. ![]()
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